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Sections are made using 1/4" thick balsa strips that are 1" wide and varying lengths between 4" and 12" long.White glue (such as Elmer's) and thicker craft glue (such as Aleen's).Tan craft paint and brush for dry brushing.Spray paints - medium brown and an optional primer.The only thing I needed to purchase for this project was the balsa wood in this specific thickness. Most of the following materials are things that a miniatures hobbyist will have lying around already. As a part of forcing myself to sit down and drive this to completion, I took a few pictures and have sketched out the process I used. I started a second much larger batch (about 16 feet), but as I often do, I bogged down and didn't get very far into it before moving on to something else that had caught my attention. I worked out a simple process that produced a really nice end result and completed a small batch of about 6 linear feet of hedge. The goal was to create sections of hedge that would be usable as either hedgerows for 15mm WW2 or as simple hedges for any of my multitude of 25/28mm periods. The picture below shows an Afghan dwelling I made to go with my Caesar 1/72 Modern US Elite Force H058.One of my goals for the March/April time frame was to complete a hedge/hedgerow making project that I had begun a few months ago. You can make many different types of buildings: houses, bunkers, huts, shacks, etc. Always work from a picture this will help you to stay on track and make your building more realistic. (It is nice to have cardboard of varying thickness). For the crags below I first painted a base coat of slate gray, then dry brushed in light gray, then in white.īuildings are very simple, and all you really need is cardboard, glue, filler, and paint. After this, you can repeat the process again using an even lighter color, if you wish. This creates an instant highlight-and-shadow effect.
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The way this works is that the brush will only really press against the raised portions of the surface, and leave the deeper recesses darker. You will need to do this a few times to achieve the right effect. Wipe off most of this paint, so the brush is almost dry, then lightly brush it against the surface that you wish to paint. After painting your base coat on, dip just the tip of your brush in a lighter shade of that same color. This technique could also be called "instant 3D-ifying," because it brings out the raised areas of a surface, making it appear more 3-dimensional. This simple and easy technique will do wonders to your terrain. I painted the rest of the hill green, ready to be flocked. Finally, I glued on a few pieces of gravel in the niches. I painted the crags gray, then drybrushed in a lighter shade of gray. Always use filler on Styrofoam it will cover up the pebbled, unnatural surface of the Styrofoam. I slathered some filler over the whole thing, filling in the gaps and giving it texture. To make the crags (far right) I just hacked and carved at one side of the Styrofoam to make them appear rocky. I first glued two sheets of cardboard on top of each other to make a firm base, then glued a molded chunk of Styrofoam on that. Below is a simple hill I made from nothing more than cardboard, styrofoam, glue, filler, paint, and some gravel.